Note: The preferred method of assembly requires the use of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue and an accelerant. A thick construction adhesive or 2-part epoxy may be utilized in conjunction with clamp-up and sufficient cure times. Additionally, the preferred filament material is PETG. PLA may be used in lieu of PETG, but only if the assembled speaker stays indoors and away from direct sunlight.
Suggested number of wall loops and infill percentages are all minimums. All parts should have four (4) top and bottom layers with concentric infill.
Note: All our parts are designed to print without support! Orient parts on the build plate with this in mind. It will be obvious what side is up. Accent rings print "face down" so as to achieve the best surface finish.
Don't have everything you need listed above?
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Follow our Multi Step Guide below to assemble your FDM4 Loudspeakers with your Print-It-Yourself Kit.
Use soldering iron to press and melt inserts into the front baffle. Threaded inserts should sit flush or sub-flush to the mounting surface. Take care to press inserts as perpendicularly to the mounting surface as possible. Straight up and down.
Apply foam pads to the indentations on bottom of the speaker cabinet
Screw binding post terminal through back, with positive (red) on right as shown.
Tighten binding post until the clear plastic and color ring-washer bank against the rear outside wall of the cabinet. The clear plastic should sit right against the surface, without a gap.
Strip both ends of both speaker cable pairs (tweeter & woofer)
Crimp tweeter (blue) female connectors.
Crimp woofer (pink) female connectors.
Heat shrink woofer connectors (pink) and trim as needed to allow for male speaker connection tabs to insert.
Connect bare end of woofer and tweeter cables to screw terminals on LF and HF, respectively. “+ to red”
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Drop crossover with cables attached over the exposed threaded ends of the binding posts on back on cabinet.
To secure the crossover to the back wall, install lock washer so that it contacts the PCB directly, then add the nut, tightened with 7mm socket and long-reach wrench or a short flat head screwdriver as shown.
It is imperative that the positive (+) binding post be in contact with the “+” hole on the PCB.
Add stuffing with wires tucked around as shown. Set aside and begin to prep the front baffle for bonding & tweeter for seating.
Test fit the waveguide into the tweeter cavity. The fit should be somewhat snug, to the point that if you strike the back of front baffle with it in hand it pops out by itself. It should take a whack to get it out.
Next, insert the tweeter into the tweeter thru-hole. The fit should be very snug. Use caution and do not push on the soft dome, you’ll damage it! Push only on the hard flared portion until the tweeter flange sits about 3/16” proud of the bottom of the tweeter cavity.
The rear plate of the tweeter body should sit as shown.
Now, test fit the waveguide with the tweeter in place. You may need to push a little to get the tweeter to seat right against the flared portion of the tweeter.
The waveguide with tweeter must sit flush with the outer surface of the front baffle once seated. Remove both waveguide and tweeter from front baffle in preparation for front baffle gluing to main cabinet.
Glue front baffle to main cabinet by applying a generous bead of glue to inner rail of the mating lip. Add accelerant to the front baffle and then push the two pieces together. Alternatively, you can use 3D Gloop, construction adhesive, Gorilla Clear, 2-part epoxy or even a PVA glue. We recommend CA glue with accelerant. If using a slow curing adhesive, ensure good clamp-up and some heavy books, placing the assembly face down to cure/dry.
Route the tweeter (blue) and woofer (pink) connectors through their respective openings in preparation for driver attaching.
Connect positive (red) cable of tweeter cable to red male tab on tweeter, and the other to negative.
Insert the tweeter into the thru hole like was done for the test fit. Again, taking care to only push on the rigid plastic flared portion around the soft dome of the tweeter.
The supplied segment of TPU filament is a friction fit feature that sits in the groove of the waveguide on the side.
Tuck the filament around the groove of the waveguide as you press the waveguide into the tweeter cavity.
This is going to be a permanent installation of the waveguide + tweeter.
Push the waveguide with filament in groove (it should take some force) until it sits flush with the front baffle, like from the test fit. If it sits a little proud, you may use a soft rubber mallet and a flat surface to tap the assembly flush.
Flipping it over and pressing on a hard table or book surface will do the trick too. But again, the tweeter should be pushed in as far as possible into the cavity so that the waveguide just slides right in.
Attach pink terminals with red cable going to positive terminal. Then fasten in a crisscross pattern. There should be a foam seal on the back side of the woofer flange. Line that up with the holes to promote a good seal to the woofer thru hole.
Line up the recessed holes on the beauty/accent ring with the button head fasteners. Cup the ring slightly and insert under reverse bevel of the front baffle. It should slide underneath the lip without much force.
Then continue to apply uniform pressure around the remainder of the beauty ring that is sitting proud of the front baffle. Work it into position. No mallets required here! It should give you a reassuring “snap” once in position.
Enjoy and please feel free to contact us if you have any questions, we're here to help ensure you have a beautiful listening experience.
