Note: The preferred method of assembly requires the use of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue and an accelerant. A thick construction adhesive or 2-part epoxy may be utilized in conjunction with clamp-up and sufficient cure times. Additionally, the preferred filament material is PETG. PLA may be used in lieu of PETG, but only if the assembled speaker stays indoors and away from direct sunlight.
Note: All our parts are designed to print without support! Orient parts on the build plate with this in mind. It will be obvious what side is up.
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Follow our Multi Step Guide below to assemble your FDMS8 Subwoofer with your Print-It-Yourself Kit.
Apply glue inside of the glue fence. Less is NOT more. More is more, and make sure excess glue flows to the inside of the cabinet as shown.
It helps to stand the lower left quadrant upright as shown.
Let gravity do the work to settle the glue a bit. Don’t get glue inside the threaded insert holes!
Set aside and allow time to dry/cure.
Apply glue to surface as shown in previous glue guidance, taking care to wick up adhesive against the inside of the glue fence. See cross-section.
It helps to stand the upper right quadrant upright as shown. Let gravity do the work to settle the glue a bit. Don’t get glue inside the threaded insert holes! It’s ok to get a little squeeze-out in the ports. Set aside and allow glue to cure fully.
Apply glue to surface as shown in previous glue guidance, taking care to wick up adhesive against the inside of the glue fence. See cross-section.
You’re essentially assembling the cabinet upside down. Place the upper assembly on its head and apply glue liberally as shown.
Don’t get glue inside the threaded insert holes! It’s ok to get a little squeeze-out and glue running in the ports.
Good thing is, it will run “up” and you won’t see it at the port exits. Be sure to apply firm and even pressure to the Lower Assembly during the entire time of glue cure/dry.
Set aside and allow glue to cure/dry fully.
Congrats, the hard part is over!!!
Use soldering iron to add x12 M3 threaded heat inserts to plate amp opening.
Try to get the inserts to sit sub-flush of the flange surface. See cross-section.
Use soldering iron to add x12 M5 threaded heat inserts to woofer (8) opening and feet attach points (4).
Try to get the inserts to sit sub-flush of the surface. See cross-section.
Stuff each quadrant with the 2oz bags of Poly-Fil included. Try to distribute it evenly throughout, tucking it into the nooks and crannies.
Do not block the ports.
Using the included x12 M3 fasteners, attach the plate amp to the square opening.
Snug down the fasteners in a crisscross pattern, hopping from one edge of the opening to the other. Fish the cable for the woofer through the woofer opening.
Trim off the spade connectors on the ends of the cable and strip about 0.50” of shielding to expose the bare wire. Give the wire ends a few twists just to organize the strands.
With the barrel connections on the woofer fully depressed, feed the bare twisted strands of wire through the revealed hole and release the spring to grip the bare wire (metal on metal, not metal on shielding/plastic).
With positive to positive and negative to negative connected, drop the woofer into the opening with the holes lined up and fasten in a crisscross pattern with the included x8 M5 fasteners. Again, it helps if the sub is standing upside down, on its head.
Fasten the four feet (or spikes if on carpet) with the remaining x4 M5 fasteners.
Add x4 foam rubber pads to the bottom of the feet and stand this puppy up for the world to see!
And as always, hook it up to an appropriate sub-out or LFE (Low Frequency Effects) source, set phase, boost, crossover point, and crank it to 11!!! The included manual on the plate amp provides a basic setup tutorial.